A Visit to Birgu
Last night we took our visiting guest for a night walk through the Three Cities, particularly focusing on Birgu/Vittoriosa.
The Three Cities are across the Grand Harbour from Valletta, the capital of Malta, and form two peninsulas which in turn form more inlets of the sea. This whole system of habours and inlets is one of the reasons that made Malta so coveted throughout history, and one of the reasons why every colonial power has wanted to control the islands for thousands of years. Not only is Malta in the centre of the Mediterranean, but it also offers ample space in its natural harbours for ships to dock.
These cities across from Valletta pre-date the capital, and when the Knights arrived in Malta they first set up their headquarters there. Unfortunately, the heavy bombing during World War II destroyed a large part of the buildings. (Malta was the most heavily bombed place during the War, even more than London). However, the Three Cities have not lost their unique feeling, probably helped by the fact that the peninsulas offer a natural boundary.
What is confusing for newcomers is that each of the three was renamed over the past few centuries due to historical reasons, but each one still uses both names in everyday speech, with the result that one now has to learn all six names. I still confuse which newer name matches which older name, but last night I tried to pay close attention. Isla is also Senglea, Bormla is also Cospicua, and Birgu is also Vittoriosa. Did I get that right, my Maltese readers? Please correct me if I did not.
The walk through Birgu/Vittoriosa was such a pleasant surprise! I had been there last year when I came to visit, but the night-time walk was something else. The residents have taken great care to keep their streets clean and nice, with plenty of potted plants. Several streets had a recognition certificate from the local council acknowledging and thanking the residents for their efforts. Many streets are pedestrian only, and some even retain the original stone streets from before the modern paved roads. There are historical plaques all over indicating that some buildings were used by the Knights in the XVI century! Unfortunately many of these plaques also indicate that the original building was bombed during World War II, but some do remain. Left standing was the oldest house in Malta, dating back 800 years!!
The views of the harbour and across to Valletta were stunning, especially as the bastions of the capital are lit up at night. I remember them being equally stunning during the day.
So, for those locals who have not been to Birgu/Vittoriosa in a while, I recommend a stroll through its streets. And hopefully I can entice some visitors too!
